When applying joint compound, care must generally be taken to ensure that the layer is not too thick. A thickness of up to twelve centimeters is usually sufficient, but the average thickness is typically about a quarter centimeter. However, in most cases, the first layer applied with a standard lightweight filler is thinner, often around eight millimeters.
However, the thickness of this mixture should also vary from one part of the wall to another, which should be considered.
For example, you generally want it to be as thin as possible. When applied along joints or long edges, it needs to be flush with the surface of the plastered wall. A lighter coat is always preferable over screw heads and butt joints, but remember that the tape or mesh must also be covered!
Above all, poor plastering will certainly not give the best effect on a plastered wall. Therefore, you or the plasterer need to apply more joint compounds and smooth out any unevenness or imperfections. Also, butt joints will need more clay across the width than corners or recesses. The thickness of the drywall mortar layer also depends on the quality of the drywall bond and the joint to be covered.
How to Fix Drywall with Too Much Mud?
During drywall installation, you may accidentally apply too much joint compound. Usually, this happens to novice plasterers, but even if you have some experience in this field, you should consider the possibility of such a defect.
What to do if this happens and you urgently need to save the wall? The solution is obvious and very simple: repair it! To do this, you can use one of the following tools:
- Use sandpaper.
- Or, if you want a smooth surface, use a sponge.
However, remember that dust is much more abundant when using sandpaper! For this reason, protect your face with a respirator mask to breathe appropriately and avoid inhaling the dust from the joint compound.
In comparison, using a sponge (also known as a wet sanding method) will reduce the dusty effect.
What Are the Implications of Excessive Drywall Mud?
If too much joint compound is applied to the drywall, a very common problem that most renovators face can occur. As a result, it is cracked in the drywall.
This usually occurs if the joint compound has been applied too thickly or too quickly. To avoid cracks, use no more mud than is necessary for the current project in all layers. Similarly, allow each coat of plasterboard joint compound to dry completely and thoroughly. Only when completely dry can another coat be applied.
Practical Drywall Taping Advice
If you want your plaster or drywall wallpapering project to result in a smooth, flawless wall, and if your goal is to finish it more quickly, we recommend that you consider some very simple and practical tips that will help you improve your wallpapering skills and avoid the mistakes or errors that most of us encounter when wallpapering or plastering.
But before you go ahead, make sure you have all the tools and products you need to complete the project:
- a gallon bucket
- a container of clay
- sanding bloc
- band knife
- utility knife
- 100 grit sandpaper
- plasterboard compound
- metal corner piece
- paper tape
- fixing compound
Check out what may be done to make your taping and mudding wall project perfect in light of all that.
Mixing the compound
If you have just opened the bucket containing the dry joint compound, we recommend removing about a quarter to make room for water. Then, add two or three cups of water and mix the paste well.
If you want to act like a pro and speed up the process considerably (which also makes for a much better result), we recommend using a special ½-inch drill fitted with a special mixing paddle. But if for some reason you cannot get one, resort to the good old “potato masher,” a blender specially designed for this purpose and operated by hand.
Also, if you intend to use the joint compound for several small projects, transfer some of it to another bucket before mixing it. For example, this will make it easier to use for finishing or bonding.
Avoid using bucket paste.
This joint compound is too thick to apply and spread evenly, which is the crucial aspect of using it. So, before spreading the tape, remember to thin it and mix it well.
Fill in the gaps beforehand with a fixing compound.
This will make the surface smoother and more uniform, which will greatly help apply the joint compound. As for the product needed for this task, we recommend sticking to a fixing compound. It is perfect for pre-filling, as it does not shrink, dries quickly, and hardens well.
At this point, mix in a small amount of modeling compound, avoiding overdoing it. In this case, the substance will harden even before it is used. Also, knead thick enough to get into the holes without collapsing.
Once the applied mixture has hardened to the consistency of soap, carefully scrape out lumps and high spots. Use the edge of the cutting knife for this purpose.
Finally, remember to fill the spaces between the slabs with the same fixing compound you mixed and let it harden well. Only then can you continue with the application of the usual joint compound.
Cut V-Shape Grooves At Butt Joints
A relatively common problem faced by amateurs is the presence of a layer of paper on the ends of the drywall, which can peek through the glued joint. A shallow “V” groove can be made between the boards after hanging to avoid this.
After cutting, fill the grooves with a fixed joint compound before covering the joint with a regular joint compound and tape.
Scraping ridges and roughness between layers.
Even if you are a professional sculptor, small spots of the joint compound may remain on occasional ridges. You must remove them because if you don’t, they will cause you many problems later.
These dried joint compound fragments may break off or get stuck under the tape., causing ugly marks in the new compound that need to be filled in later. Fortunately, this problem can be quickly avoided by simply scraping the joints between coats.
A single pass with a 15 cm long taping knife can remove roughness and ridges.
Complete banding of the belt
You will avoid much extra work later by ensuring that the paper tape is well embedded in the joint compound. To do this properly, start by applying a thick layer of joint compound (a “bed”) in the center of the joint.
Next, smooth it to a uniform thickness of about ⅛ inch with a 5- or 6-inch taping knife. Next, wet the tape and press it into the joint compound. Then, starting in the center and working toward the ends, push the tape into the drywall compound with the knife.
Never let the tape dry.
If the paper tape is not entirely embedded in the joint compound, it will peel or blister as soon as it dries. For this reason, keeping an eye on the tape while working with the knife during insertion is essential.
If you see any sections of the tape where one or more sides is still wet and no joint compound is coming out, you should peel off the tape and apply more compound under the dry areas. Then use the tape over the new splice paste.
Never tape both sides of the corner at the same time.
Getting smooth, It’s not difficult to apply a flawless coat of joint compound to the first side of an inside corner. However, if you start immediately with the second side without letting the first side dry, you risk ruining everything. Therefore, always allow time for the first side to dry.
Moistening the paper tape
Moistening the paper tape before inserting it into the plasterboard joint compound can eliminate the annoying bubbles that usually appear immediately after the compound dries. For this reason, we suggest you always keep a bucket of water handy and quickly wipe off any tape residue before applying it to the wall.
Remove any tape that has come loose or blistered.
Even if the paper tape was precisely put into the drywall joint compound, you might encounter a section or two of the tape that has bubbles or has come loose. And here, the biggest mistake would be to try to cover up the defect with even more of the already-used compound. This will do no good, as the problem will come up later.
Instead, cut around the problem area with a cutter and remove the tape. Also, remember to fill the crack with a joint compound to prevent a groove from forming and let it cure before applying another layer of joint compound.
You now know the ideal thickness of the joint compound to apply to the gypsum board. With this and the tips on mud and tape, you will be able to complete your project, even if you are a beginner!